Frequently Asked Questions

Frequently Asked Questions

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Tree Pruning & Trimming

  • Prune apple trees in late winter (February to early March in the UK), while the tree is still dormant. This minimises stress, helps prevent disease, and encourages strong, healthy growth in the spring. 

  • Apple trees should be trimmed in late winter or early spring before new growth starts. This encourages strong branches and improves fruit quality.

  • Plum trees in the UK should be pruned in mid-to-late summer to reduce the risk of silver leaf disease.

  • Prune cherry trees in late summer (July to August) to prevent silver leaf disease and encourage healthy growth.

  • Prune magnolia trees after flowering in late spring or early summer to avoid stress and encourage a healthy shape.

  • Most fruit trees are best pruned in late winter while dormant. Some, like stone fruits, are pruned in summer.

  • Apple trees should be cut back during their dormant season – usually between late winter and early spring to ensure healthy regrowth.

  • Begin by removing any dead, diseased, or damaged branches. Next, eliminate any branches that cross or rub against others. Focus on creating an open, goblet-shaped canopy to improve air circulation and light penetration. Cut just above a healthy bud, angling away from it to prevent water accumulation. Use clean, sharp secateurs or pruning saws. For complex pruning jobs or old neglected trees, it's wise to seek advice from a tree care expert.

  • Prune olive trees in late spring or early summer after the last frost, shaping lightly and removing dead wood.

  • Prune fig trees in late winter or early spring, removing dead or weak branches to encourage healthy fruiting.

  • Prune bay trees in late spring or early summer to shape and control size. Light trims throughout the year are fine.

  • Cut back trees during their dormant period (late autumn to early spring) unless they are flowering trees, which are best pruned after blooming.

Tree Removal & Stumps

  • You can remove tree stumps by grinding, digging out manually, or applying a chemical stump remover. Grinding is effective for quick removal and minimal disruption, while manual digging suits smaller stumps or areas with limited access. Chemical removers work over time and are useful when immediate removal isn't necessary.

  • Start by digging around the stump to expose major roots. Use a pruning saw or axe to cut through the roots, then rock the stump back and forth with a pry bar or shovel. For large stumps, this can be very labour-intensive—consulting a professional may save time and avoid injury.

  • To safely cut down a tree:

    • Check legal requirements

    • Ensure the tree isn’t protected by a Tree Preservation Order (TPO) or located in a conservation area.

    • Wear PPE – Safety gear is essential: helmet, gloves, goggles, chainsaw trousers, and boots.

    • Clear the area – Remove obstacles and ensure people and pets are at a safe distance.

    • Plan the fall – Determine the tree's lean and choose a safe, clear direction for it to fall.

    • Make your cuts – Start with a notch cut on the fall side (a 70° top cut and horizontal bottom cut), followed by a felling cut on the opposite side slightly above the notch.

    • Retreat quickly – Move away at a 45° angle from the direction of the fall.

    Important: Cutting down a tree can be dangerous and is not recommended without proper training. For large trees or tight spaces, always hire a professional tree surgeon – they’re trained and insured for the job.

  • Smaller trunks can be dug out with a spade and pry bar by exposing and cutting the main roots. For larger stumps, use a mechanical stump grinder to chip away the wood below ground level. This method is efficient and leaves the area ready for replanting. Large or awkwardly located trunks often require the skills of a professional tree surgeon.

  • Use sharp, clean tools to remove dead, damaged, or diseased limbs. Make cuts just outside the branch collar without leaving stubs. Trim for shape and to improve air circulation. Always avoid topping trees, which can cause long-term harm. For larger trees or those near structures, contact a qualified tree care professional to ensure safety and precision.

  • Apply a root killer or systemic herbicide directly to freshly cut roots or stumps. Avoid affecting nearby plants.

Tree Planting & Care

  • Ensure the tree is planted in a sunny, sheltered spot with well-drained soil. Water regularly during the first year, then sparingly once established. Fertilise in spring using a balanced slow-release feed. Prune in late spring or early summer to maintain shape and remove any dead or inward-growing branches. For long-term health and shaping, consider periodic consultation with a professional.

  • Choose a tree species suitable for your soil, light conditions, and local climate. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and just as deep. Place the tree at the same level it was grown in its nursery. Backfill gently with soil and water well. Mulch around the base, keeping it away from the trunk. Stake if needed, especially in exposed areas, and remove the stake after 1–2 years. Speak to a tree care professional to ensure proper species selection and placement for long-term success

  • Tree growth rates vary, but most take 10–30 years to reach maturity depending on species and conditions.

  • Staking supports young or newly planted trees until their roots anchor firmly in the soil.

    • Position stakes – Place one or two stakes just outside the root ball (not through it), typically about 45 cm (18 in) from the trunk.

    • Height and material – Use 1.5–2 m tall stakes and soft, adjustable ties to prevent trunk damage.

    • Tie the tree – Attach the tree to the stake about one-third up the trunk using a flexible tie that allows slight movement to encourage root development.

    • Check regularly – Inspect for rubbing or constriction and adjust as needed.

    • Remove after 1–2 years – Once roots have established, remove the stakes to avoid long-term dependence.

    If you’re unsure how to support a tree properly, speak to a local tree care professional for tailored advice.

  • Place the tree in full sun and protect it from frost, especially when young. Use a pot with drainage holes if growing in containers. Prune annually to maintain a compact, attractive shape. Reduce watering during winter. For larger or older trees, a tree care specialist can help maintain health and fruit production.

  • Start by selecting native species that support local biodiversity. Choose suitable locations away from power lines and buildings. Prepare the site by removing weeds and improving soil if needed. After planting, mulch and water regularly, especially in the first year. Community planting events and expert-led projects are a great way to contribute. For large-scale or urban planting, it’s best to work with certified tree surgeons or environmental consultants.

Tree Identification & Types

  • Use tree identification apps like PlantNet, PictureThis, or Leafsnap. These tools let you photograph leaves, bark, or flowers to get instant matches. For ambiguous results or complex species, a certified arborist or tree specialist can provide an expert ID.

  • Reading a tree involves assessing its overall health, structure, and history through careful observation. Look for signs like uneven growth, dieback in branches, discoloured or spotted leaves, fungal growth at the base, or cracking bark—these may indicate stress or disease. Examine the root flare (where the trunk meets the ground) and inspect the canopy's density and symmetry. Understanding these signs can help in early problem detection, but interpreting complex issues or confirming disease often requires professional input. If unsure, consult a qualified tree surgeon to assess tree health and safety.

  • Tree nuts are edible seeds from trees, including almonds, walnuts, hazelnuts, and pecans.

  • Common Christmas tree species include Norway spruce, Nordmann fir, and Scots pine.

  • Conkers come from the horse chestnut tree (Aesculus hippocastanum).

  • Sycamore leaves are large, with five lobes – similar to maple leaves – and turn yellow or brown in autumn.